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July 15, 2010

Installing a new Toilet- Final Steps

We're ready for our final installment of our series on installing a new toilet.  Int he past two article, we showed how the old toilet was removed and the area prepped and cleaned for the new one to go in. Now, we're ready for the bowl to be installed on the floor.  To start with, place a bead of sealant on the bottom edge of the toilet bowl.  After ensuring that you have the wax ring in place, install the bowl, making sure that the wax ring goes over the hole in the floor.  Bold it to the floor, being careful not to tighten those bolts too much since the bowl could crack.  I also think it's a good idea to put a bead of caulk around the outside of the toilet bowl as well.

 

 

 The tank goes on next.  It's a simple concept, but the bolts are sometimes hard to get at.  The kit we bought came with a nifty metal pipe that was used to gain some leverage.  Again, be careful about the bolts being too tight.

 

 

We're almost done!  Connect the supply line and check for leaks.  The tank will say how much it should be filled and there should be something like the black adjustable screw that I've shown to make the water level what it should be.  Then, grab a good book and enjoy the newly installed throne!

 

 

 

July 10, 2010

New Toilet Install- Preparation, continued

In the last article, I described our kid's bathroom toilet situation and the desire to replace it.  We started with cutting off the part of the bathroom counter that was hanging over the toilet.  With that part removed, we were then able to proceed with the removal of the old toilet.

The first thing that occurred to us is that no one has looked inside this thing in23 years.  To my surprise, it wasn't in that bad of shape.  Yes, it was old, yes, it was dirty, but it was functional and not horrible.

Removing a toilet is a pretty simple job.  The first step, of course, is to turn off the water.  As long as the water source is shut off, you only have to deal with the water in the tank and bowl.  After flushing a few times, you'll be left with water in the tank.  There's simply no good way to get rid of all of it without soaking it up with rags and towels.  Yes, it's dirty, but you just have to deal with it.  

 For the bowl, a rag stuffed down the toilet will soak up the water.  You'll have to ring it out and repeat a number of times, but in the end, you'll end up with a dry tank and bowl.  Simply undo the bolts holding it down and haul it away.  Separating tank and bowl is an optional step that may make removal easier.  When finished, you'll be left with the wax seal around a hole in the floor.

The rag in this picture is stopping up the hole during a break for lunch.  This is important because you are basically looking at your sewer line.  You don't want those gasses in the house, trust me.  So, plug the hole and then you can leave the project for errands, lunch, etc., without fear of hurting something.  As long as the water is off, there's nothing to be afraid of at this point.

When you are ready to continue,  you have to remove the wax seal and clean up.  You can use a putty knife to remove the seal, but be careful of the flange over the hole.  It's likely to be as old as your house and you don't want to break it.  The replacement of a toilet flange is frustrating, annoying, and will involve colorful language, trust me. 

 

Once the wax is gone,  you can clean around the toilet area.  It's a good idea to complete any flooring fixes at this time.  One suggestion is to check and re-caulk the seal at the bottom of the tub where it meets the floor and also to run a bead along the baseboard behind where the toilet will sit. 

Another idea is to replace the supply line with a new, steel mesh supply.  It's a bit of insurance knowing the nice new toilet is connected to a new line with new seals and fittings.  At this point, we are cleaned up and ready for the new toilet to be installed.  We'll show you how we tackled that in the next article.

July 08, 2010

Installing a new Toilet

There was an article linked from the home page of Fox News recently describing how to install a toilet. It was a good article, but was short on pictures.  So, we thought we'd also describe the process, but show you what we did each step of the way.  The process takes just a couple of hours and requires no special tools or techniques.  The toilet is definitely one of the most used seats in the house, and the benefits of installing a new model you are comfortable with are immense.

For our project, we are in the kid's bathroom.  This is one room we haven't done much with yet, and in fact, to our knowledge, no one has ever replaced or upgraded the toilet since the house was built 22 years ago.  That's because, for some inexplicable reason, the countertop extends across the toilet.  That means, no one has opened it, cleaned the inside, or upgraded any of the internal systems in 20+ years.

toilet-with-overhanging-counter I honestly have no idea why anyone would want to install a countertop and toilet in this manner.  It's impossible to service the toilet.  In fact, in order to replace the thing, we had to make the decision to either replace the entire counter or else cut off the piece that extended over the toilet.  We elected to cut the counter, since the rest of it was working just fine and there was no need to make this into a bigger project than what it was. 

In the engineering world, we call the tendency for projects to grow and grow "requirements creep".  Slowly, a project starts small and then creeps forward, a requirement at a time, until it's huge.  Luckily, we avoided that this time around and just did what was required to get the toilet installed.  

The project began with a straight line marking the countertop edge we wanted to cut off.  Armed with my handy reciprocating saw, I cut down the line until I was close to the wall.  Due to the design of the saw,  I wasn't able to get right up to the wall and needed to use the hand saw to finish the job.

 

 

It turned out that I was a little too ambitious with the reciprocating saw.  I ended up a bit too close to the wall when tilting the saw and hit the wall on the underside.  It can be patched, but it's a lesson learned.

cutting-down-countertop 

In the next post, I'll go through the remaining cleanup and prep steps before the toilet is installed.

January 14, 2010

Small Bathroom with Big Impact

Small bathrooms don't have to be boring.  Take for instance the bathroom of our suite at the Glacier Canyon Lodge at Wilderness Territory in the Wisconsin Dells.  Each mini-apartment is designed to be a home-away-from-home, and although the bathrooms have ceilings much higher than a typical home, the decor would fit in in any home with a Southwestern theme.

Here is a view of the shower.  It is a basic tub/shower combo as found in the typical "kids bathroom" in many a home, but with an upgraded look.  The slate-tile surround and contrasting shower curtain look rich together:

Slate tile shower surround 

The shower curtain has kind of a "Christmas-y" look to it... I wonder if they switch them out for the seasons.

The ever-popular rain shower head is found in this small bathroom:

Rain Shower Head 

To be honest I was not entirely impressed with the rain shower head.  It worked all right, but I didn't notice any benefit over a regular shower head.  I prefer the versatility of a hand-held in my own shower at home, and when there's one in a hotel room, I at least can deceive myself that the housekeeping personnel use it to wash the walls of the shower down.  What I really noticed was how hard the water was!  I am spoiled, I've lived with water softeners all my life, and I can really tell when the water is hard.  The soap sticks to my skin, and my hair won't rinse out.  If you look closely at the walls of the shower and the shower head itself in these pictures, you can see the lime scale build-up.  That just does not look clean.  I think that a lodging facility associated with a water park ought to spring for soft water, but then that's me.

Here is a view of the nice granite countertop (or maybe it is quartz like my kitchen countertops) for a dual vanity.  Your typical small bathroom may not have room for a dual vanity (I know ours doesn't) but I strongly believe that it's worth spending money on the vanity countertop in a bathroom.  It's so small that it is not that large of an expense, but it really packs a huge impact.

(I could do without the silk flower arrangement though.)

granite countertop sink vanity

One of the features of a Southwestern decor for a bathroom or kitchen is painted cabinets. You can see a little of that here, and the pewter drawer-pulls. 

So have fun with your small bathroom.  What is your favorite look?  I might not choose Southwestern, but I wouldn't mind something that looked up-scale.  For such a small bathroom, you can afford to splurge!


 

December 16, 2009

Preventing Toilet Clogs - And Avoiding the Plumber

No offense to plumbers, but sometimes you do not need to call one!  Toilet clogs are a bad reason to have to call a professional, but I have to admit I learned the hard way one time that I did, I should have been able to avoid a $100 service call.

The problem was our toilet in the main floor bathroom was flushing very slowly, and when you flushed it an air bubble would come up (often shooting water droplets out of the toilet - gross). I figured something must have been wrong with the flushing mechanism, something not immediately apparent to the usual back-of-the-tank survey.

The plumber came, looked at it for a while, made one minor (probably inconsequential) adjustment to the chain or something, and said that with these economy low-water usage toilets (in other words, most toilets on the market today), it is sometimes necessary to hold the handle down to make sure it flushes thoroughly.  That will prevent clogs... and he said that a clog was the reason the toilet was flushing slowly and bubbling when it was flushed.

That was a very helpful tip - maybe it was worth the $100 - because ever since we've been able to maintain the toilet's proper flushing function.  Now we have to teach the kids to do it too, and to avoid using too much toilet paper, and we can avoid using the plunger, or calling the plumber, all together.

March 01, 2009

Renovating the Kids Bathroom

Bathroom renovations are about as complicated as they come (with the possible exception of a kitchen renovation).  In addition to all the usual suspects-- drywall, flooring, paint, etc-- you have the addition of plumbing.  As soon as you cross that line, you enter a different world.  

We've renovated three bathrooms in our time.  The first was a complete gut and rebuild, replacing 50 year old tiles on the walls and ceiling with drywall and a laminate floor.  Luckily, we only attempted to replace the toilet and sink, which are basically simple changes (unless you break the toilet flange...not that we know anything about that.)

The second bathroom was more extensive, changing the location of the toilet, reversing the bathtub plumbing (making the head the foot and vice versa), an entirely new sink location, etc..  That totally crossed the line into hard-core plumbing, and it helped to have professionals in the family to make the serious decisions regarding drain slopes and the like.

The third bathroom was actually the simplest, with mainly painting work and a replaced toilet.

So now we're starting to turn our attention to the kid's bathroom.  For some inexplicable reason, we are faced with some odd design decisions.  First off, we have a countertop that runs the length of one wall, and that includes going over the toilet tank.  So you have the tank against the wall, and three inches above the tank is a counter that runs over to the sink area.  As near as I can figure, no one has opened this toilet tank in 20 years.  That's rather disgusting.  Not to mention complicated.  Now, in order to replace the toilet, I'm basically replacing the sink countertop as well.  Fun!  

The other issue we need to deal with is the tub plumbing.  It appears that the plumbing was installed upside down.  At least, the overflow drain is upside down.  It also leaks and there is no access from the other side (which is the master bathroom).  We're trying to avoid the pandora's box of one bathroom leading to renovating the entire second story plumbing system.  What we'd like to do is at least paint, install flooring, and upgrade the toilet and sink countertop.  We'll see how it goes.

Storage is also an issue in this bathroom, basically because it has none.  No closets for towels, no medicine cabinet, nothing.  So we'll need to work that in.  This bathroom is an example of why we sometimes think we should have waited before buying this house.  The design seems fundamentally flawed, with a toilet you can't maintain and no storage.  It's easy to wonder just what were they thinking when they put the house together?  But, hammer in hand and safety goggles on, we're ready to correct that thinking!

September 28, 2006

Small Bathroom Remodel

I was 7 months pregnant when we decided to tackle the 2nd floor bathroom.  It all started with the thought that we could freshen it up with a little paint.  The bathroom had yellow and black tiles for a tub surround and going halfway up the walls, and had nasty yellow square floor tiles.  I looked it up online, and we double-checked at the paint store.  Sure, you can paint tile.  Just use this epoxy paint!

So, I started by scuffing up the tile with a sander, then painted on the primer, which really made a huge difference!  The only problem... next day when I pulled back a little of the masking tape I had used to protect the walls, the primer came off with it. 

So we called the "home improvement hotline" -- i.e., my parents.  "Dad, is it hard to remove tile?"  He said no, we should be able to knock it right off with a chisel and hammer. 

Sure enough, when we attacked the tile wall, a couple of tiles broke away easily -- only to reveal the OTHER layer of tiles (a lovely shade of 1940s pink).  Actually, I think I could have lived with pink tiles, if we would have been able to remove all the residue of cement that the yellow tiles were stuck to them with.  However, that was impossible.  The only answer was to remove BOTH layers of tiles.  The pink layer was a much more difficult matter to remove.  That is the understatement of the year.  It had been applied by imbedding it in mortar and metal lathe.  It took a sledge hammer to break any of it loose, and after that we found we had better luck getting through to the lathe and cutting out sections with a wire cutter.  We had to pull the lathe free of the studs.  Yes, we were down to the studs.  And all this had started as a simple paint job!

Similarly, there were two layers of tile on the floor. The pink layer were tiny little squares.  It took a lot of pounding with the sledge hammer, which at one point sent a hunk plaster crashing down through a plumbing access panel in the kitchen ceiling, and actually poking holes in the plaster of the kitchen ceiling.  Nothing a little joint compound couldn't fix though.

Finally, the bathroom was completely gutted.  There were about 80 garbage bags full of debris on the curb.  HEAVY debris. 

We had kept the ceiling but stripped the little bit of plaster that there was off the walls.  We installed cement backer-board around the tub, because my dad (a plumber) said it was more absorbant so if the surround leaked, the walls would hold the water so it would not leak into the rest of the house. 

Here is a key point that will save you a lot of trouble if you've never cut cement backerboard before:  DO NOT USE A CIRCULAR SAW.  You don't need it for one thing.  You can score the cement backerboard with Stanley knife just like you do with drywall, and break it on the score.  We had set up our cutting station in our living room, and cut with the circular saw.  The dust that filled the house sent me into a sobbing fit like my husband had not seen yet in our marriage.  I'm sure it was partly the great offense to my nesting instinct, but oh the MESS, dust on everything we owned.  The Stanley knife method is much less dusty.

We put greenboard drywall up around the rest of the bathroom, and a plywood subfloor down.  The day that subfloor went in was a very happy day. 

It was our first experience taping drywall, and we didn't do the best job sanding the seams... my dad actually sanded them again after we had the walls primed, and they were a little better.  We used a textured wallpaper for the lower part of the walls, which hid a lot of mistakes especially around the plumbing under the sink, where we had to make some tricky cuts.

The most memorable adventure of all by far was the Battle of the Toilet Flange.  In the process of removing tile with a sledgehammer, the old flange had been inadvertantly damaged.  It had to be replaced.  This is not something that has to be done very often, if ever.  They aren't really meant to come back off.  And our flange was not budging!  This time we consulted with my grandfather, who was more familiar with 1940s plumbing.  He said the flange was probably held in with lead and rope sodder.  He suggested engine oil to loosen it.  With a vice clamp (the kind you squeeze to open) on each of two sides of the flange, and lots of engine oil down the crack, it finally started to budge, and with some jiggling back and forth and a lot of unintelligible noises from my DH, it finally pulled loose.

Another thing we did was move the light switch to the wall next to the door frame (instead of right by the sink) so we could switch the door so it opened to the wall, instead of banging into the toilet. That was when we found out that the room was crooked.  The door was no where even close to fitting back into the opening once we switched it around. We ended up buying a new door, which my DH and my dad fiddled with until they had it cut to the right shape and size.  As for the floor of the room, to this day it is probably still slanted.  It's not noticeable unless you're looking for it, and the lovely vinyl floor we put in makes up for all grievances. 

So here are the before and after bathroom remodel photos.

BELOW - This picture was taken when we were looking at the house before we bought it, when the previous owners still lived there.  Can you believe we bought this place? :

Small bathroom remodel - before photo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BELOW - Here is the tub surround after the remodel (no more tile around the heating vent!).  The installation of the surround was interesting, since the standard ones didn't QUITE fit.  We actually wound up buying two surrounds, and the panel behind the shower head was shorter than the others, but we made it work:

Small bathroom remodel - after picture

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BELOW - Here's a bathroom BEFORE photo taken from the hallway (a nice view of the yellow tile floor):

 

Small bathroom remodel - before photo 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BELOW - And here's the AFTER bathroom remodel photo taken from the hallway:

 

Small bathroom remodel - after photo 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BELOW - One more view of the remodeled bathroom:

Small bathroom remodel - after photo 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By the way, the night I went into labor, I showered in our basement bathroom.  But it wasn't too long after the baby was born that the bathroom was completely finished.




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